Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 2 | Bass Fishing

Hey folks. Glenn May here at, and one
of the things I’m gonna talk about today is like the different kind of questions that
we get either on our forums or our YouTube channel, or even on our social media channels. The thing about fishing is there’s a lot of
questions and a lot of theories, some debatable, and that’s what makes fishing so much fun. There’s actually a lot of unknowns. And even for myself, every time I go out fishing,
I try to learn something new. I try to walk away with some new nugget information
that might help me later on and help me become a better angler. We’re all like that. We’re all in the quest of knowledge. So, today’s questions, I’ve kind of culled
from a variety of different sources from our channels, and hopefully, they’re gonna help
you become a better angler. Starting off with this question. So, Glenn, I noticed in your videos that you
hold your reel, your baitcasting reel in your hand. Why do you actually hold it that way versus
holding onto the rod itself? That’s a really good question. It basically boils down to control and sensitivity. So let’s talk about control first. Rods, they’re designed to have that reel at
a point where it’s kind of a fulcrum point, it’s the pivot point, the balance point of
the rod. This allows you to have maximum leverage when
you’re setting the hook and you’re fighting the fish back, that’s the spot where kind
of the sweet spot where you’ll have that. So the reel is strategically placed where
you should have your hand. But in addition, that rod handle, that’s designed
to actually go here underneath your arm and to press against that. So when a fish bites, it actually fights. As the rod tip pushes down, the handle pushes
up against your arm and it enables you to have more leverage. If you had to hold just the rod handle, then
all of that weight is on your wrist and you’ve got to really muscle them. You’re working two, three, four times as hard
to pull on that fish versus if you had that rod handle resting against your forearm. In addition, it enables you to have a lot
more sensitivity. The line is really your only connection between
you and that fish or that lure. And so, when the lure is bouncing on the bottom,
or when there’s a bite, those little vibrations come up through the line. When they touch the rod guide, some of that
vibration is transmitted down the rod, and the rest of the vibration also goes down through
the line to your reel. So the reel seats are designed in such a way
that first of all, there’s a blank on the bottom side of it, and that’s where your fingers
touch. So you have your fingers touch on the actual
blank itself so you can feel those vibrations coming through the rod. If you had a hold of that cork handle, or
that EVA foam handle, that foam, it deadens all that and you’re not gonna feel that vibrations
coming through the rod. The line connecting all the way down to your
baitcaster, all that vibration’s gonna be vibrating right through the baitcaster right
to your hand. So between your hand touching the rod, and
your hand touching the baitcaster, you’re gonna have a lot more sensitivity and be able
to detect those subtle bites as well as being able to have a much better feel for what is
on the bottom of the lake. Okay. Here’s a great question about props. Glenn, would a stainless steel prop, one that
give my lower gears, my lower unit more damage if when I hit an object versus having an aluminum
prop, I mean wouldn’t aluminum probably better in those conditions? This is a myth. Honestly, because the way props are designed,
they’re not all one welded piece of stainless steel or aluminum for that matter. The core of the prop is called the hub, that’s
actually pressed on machine-wise, pressed on with a rubber gasket in the middle. It’s done this way because it’s engineered
to absorb impact when you strike something and even give way if you hit a really hard
object long before that vibration or damage can occur, you know, going up into the gear
case where it can cause damage. That hub will give away and you actually will
spin it. It’s what you call a spun hub, you know, break
that tension and that prop will spin free around the hub. There, that way, the prop takes the brunt
of the damage versus the lower unit. Also, if you do hit something that’s not as
hard with your prop, stainless steel can hold up to that a lot better than aluminum. The stainless steel might have a little scratch
or a small nick, whereas that could total an aluminum prop. So over the course of the lifespan of the
engine that you own it, you could go through several aluminum props and actually end up
spending more money that way than you did if you just bought a stainless steel prop
upfront. There we go! Okay. There we go. There we go. That was fun. Thanks for playing buddy. So here’s a good question. A spinnerbait doesn’t look like anything you
would see in a lake, yet the bass hit it. I don’t understand why? Glenn, why do you think this is the case? Well, a spinnerbait, what it does…yeah,
you’re right. A lot of people have a hard time getting over
what a spinnerbait actually looks like. They have a hard time fishing it they don’t
have all the confidence because it doesn’t look like, say, a baitfish or a crawfish. That said, a spinnerbait appeals to the bass
as predatory instincts as well as its senses. This is why it’s actually so good at attracting
strikes. It does a couple of things. First of all, it moves quickly through the
water column. You use it by fishing it through and by the
places where the ambush points where the bass are at. So it goes by very quickly, it almost startles
the best, but they have to react in an instant, they don’t have time to think. It’s something that’s moving that looks alive
and that’s why they hit it, it’s getting away from them. It also has the flash and vibrations. It looks very realistic, like something moving
and going through the water. And those are the type of things that baitfish
and other forage have, are those characteristics. So it resembles not visually but it gives
off those visual cues that, “Hey, this is something that I like to eat or will eat.” In addition, in my opinion, bass, they are
very curious and they don’t have hands like us. They can’t grab onto something to look at
and examine it and touch and feel it to figure out what it is. The only thing they have is their mouth. So they will put something in their mouth
to figure out what it is. And so, a spinnerbait, it looks a little foreign
to them, but it gives off all those characteristics that it’s something that’s alive, that’s something
that they could eat. And so, some of the bites that you get are
because they want to know what that is. So you’ve got those three different things. It’s appealing to their predatory instincts,
it’s appealing to their visual and the lateral line senses, and it’s appealing towards their
curiosity. I think that’s why spinnerbaits work so well. Here’s a great question about spooling line
on a reel? Why is it so important to get the right amount
of line on your reel? Boy, there’s several reasons for this. On baitcasting reels, if you don’t put enough
a line on there, man, you’re gonna get a lot of backlashes because that spool is gonna
spin a lot faster and that line isn’t gonna be able to peel off as fast as that spool
is running and you’ll get a lot of backlashes. It will also inhibit your casting distance
that way because it’s just gonna mess up with that line. With spinning, if you don’t have as much line
on there, then what happens, you’ll underfill it. That line is gonna be whapping up against
the lip of the spool and that’s gonna inhibit your casting distance. So you’re gonna have much shorter cast because
the line isn’t filled up all the way. Now conversely, if you overfill a spinning
reel, then all your line is gonna be looping off. It’s gonna be coming…that lip isn’t gonna
hold it in place, the line is just gonna be falling off that reel and you’re gonna get
all kinds of nasty knots and backlashes. And when you’re reeling in the line and
a lot of times you’ll get that little bit of a loop in the spool and then your next
cast, you get this big bird’s nest. So overfilling it can be just as detrimental
as underfilling it. With a baitcaster, if you overfill it, a lot
of times what happens is when you depress the thumb bar, it’s kind of got this fulcrum,
right? So you’ve depressed it on the top, the body
of that thumb bar will…the bottom part moves in and it can touch in or rub the line if
it’s overfilled, and it’s gonna decrease your casting distance. Plus, what I’ve discovered as personal experience,
if you overfill it, the line doesn’t always line right back up evenly on the spool when
you’re retrieving it. It can load up on one side or the other. And while you’re reeling it back in, it’ll
start to catch on either the piece of the frame of the baitcasting reel or on that thumb
bar and it’ll start to tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, and it’ll catch. And that can be really detrimental to when
you’re especially if you catch a fish, but it also, you, say, you’re crankbait fishing
or spinnerbait fishing and now your reel is clunking and catching and stuff, it’s gonna
ruin your retrieve. So make sure you fill it up to the proper
amount of line on your reel and you’re gonna have a lot better success not only with the
casting and casting accuracy, but also in your presentations. Keri: There we go. Better one? Glenn: Yeah. I bounced it right off a rock. As soon as it hit the rock, bang. Smacked it. As soon as it ricocheted off the rock. Here we go. All right, here’s a question about lake management. If I go to a lake several times and I don’t
catch any fish, is this an indication of possible lake mismanagement? Well, you know, I’m not gonna say no, because
yeah, it’s possible the lake isn’t managed very well, and there just might not be an
abundant amount of fish in it. But typically, if you’re struggling to catch
fish in the lake, it’s usually because of the angler. A lot of us like to blame something else,
environmental conditions or lake mismanagement, but the reality is, sometimes the fish are
just reluctant to bite or you’re fishing in areas where the fish aren’t at or perhaps
you may be fishing the wrong lure or presentation that aren’t appealing to the fish at that
time. Fishing is a real puzzle, it’s real difficult
sometimes to narrow down what the pattern is that day. It’s a matter of trial and error for everybody,
myself included and every pro, when they go out on the water, they have an idea of what
the fish might be doing that day. But the reality is, you’ve got to go through
a series of trial and error and kind of a countdown method, if you will, to go through
the check-downs, go through these different motions to find what the fish are doing that
day and fine-tune based upon what you think they’re supposed to be doing and find out
what they’re really doing for you to catch fish. So, what I like to do, for example, is I’ll
fish top to bottom, fast to slow, just kind of a matrix in my mind, where I’ll fish the
top layer water first, then I’ll start fishing fast and then I’ll start fishing medium speed
and then slow. If I’m not getting bit there, I’ll move down
another layer in the water column, and again, fish fast, medium to slow, move deeper, fast,
medium, slow. At the same time, I’m also looking at different
cover available. I’ll fish weeds, I’ll do that same thing,
top to bottom. I’ll fish points top to bottom. I’ll fish stumpy areas or flats, top to bottom,
that type of thing. I dissect it that way and that enables me
to hone in on where the fish are that day and to catch more fish. A good indicator to tell whether or not a
lake has been mismanaged is if there’s a lot of fish that are the exact same size that
are thin, stunted fish. Typically, you catch a lot of dinks, those
10 to 12 inch fish or even smaller. They’re all uniform no matter what you do,
and they’re not very fat. That to me, means you have an overabundant
population and not enough forage. That’s a lake mismanagement issue. Why are extremely long cast critical to crankbait
fishing? This is a really good question. It really goes down to the mechanics of crankbait
fishing, specifically deep diving crankbaits. In order to get that bait down to the diving
depth, you’ve got to do a lot of cranking at first to really fast to get it down there. And then you can slow down your retrieve,
and crank it and to keep it down at that depth as long as you can. But at some point, it’s gonna start coming
right back up to you, because you’ve run out of length, and it’s gonna start coming right
back up to your boat into your rod and reel. So, there’s a certain amount of your cast
that’s spent on that lure going down to the depth that needs to be and coming back
up. The shorter the depth, the shorter the cast
you make, the less amount of time it’s gonna spend at that ideal depth where the fish are
gonna bite it. So a longer cast are necessary so you can
keep that bait longer during the strike zone and fish greater areas for longer amount of
periods with that crankbait. So that’s why you fish and throw long distance
with your crankbaits. So I hope I’ve answered some of your questions. If I didn’t get to them, don’t worry, I got
a bunch of these that I’m gonna go through. As time goes on, I’ll be answering your questions,
I hopefully get to yours soon enough. And if you happen to have a question for me,
please shoot me an email down here at the bottom of this. I’ve got it listed down here or you can always
hit me up on Facebook or on our forums on For more tips and tricks like this, visit

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